Urethane Supply Company has everything needed to repair and refinish plastics. From plastic welders to instant glues to epoxy fillers to paints to primers, you name it. Some of our products that you may be familiar with are: Mini-Weld Airless Plastic Welder, Plastic Magic Adhesion Promoter, PlatiFix plastic repair kit (not to be confused with Plastex plastic repair kit), Bumper and Trim Black (not to be confused with Forever Black), Wax Blaster wax remover, Flex Filler (not to be confused with Duramix), Black Cat primer (not to be confused with Transtar Hydroflex), Insta-Weld adhesives (not to be confused with Crazy Glue or LocTite), Bumper and Cladding Coat, ATV Fender Welder, Kayak and Canoe Welder for Pelican canoes, FiberFlex welding rods, Uni-Weld welding rods, EZ Weld Hot Air Plastic Welder, Steinel hot air plastic welder. We also carry a complete line of plastic welding rods. For example, we manufacture ABS welding rods, Polypropylene welding rods, Polyethylene welding rods, TPO (TEO) plastic welding rods, Polyurethane welding rods. In addition to the products you need to repair plastic, we also have detailed instructions and tutorials with step-by-step instructions on how to repair plastic.
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If possible, remove the taillight. It's easier to do the repair if you can position the light so the damage is straight up. If it's too much trouble to remove the light, don't worry about it. These instructions are written assuming that you can't remove the light.
Clean the damaged area with a household window cleaner.
Using a Dremel tool, file, or emery board, bevel or v-groove the edges around the hole or crack as shown.

Bevel at a 45 degree angle all the way through the plastic as shown below.
| Top view of hole | Cross-section of hole |

Cut a piece of the clear plastic case in which the kit is packaged so that it is large enough to cover the hole.

Lay the sheet of clear plastic over the hole. Use a sharp black marker to trace out a piece that will fit inside the bevel but not fall through the hole. (Tip: make small dots first, then connect the dots.)

Cut the piece you traced out of the clear plastic sheet just inside the line you drew. Trim as necessary to fit flush down inside the bevel.

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Pour PlastiFix Liquid into cup. The volume of liquid used can be adjusted to suit total amount of PlastiFix needed and working time required. The more liquid used, the longer the working time. If this is your first time to use PlastiFix, try 5 ml of liquid to start with. |
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Pour PlastiFix powder into liquid. A 2:1 liquid-to-powder ratio is good to start with. For example, if you used 5 ml of liquid, pour in powder until the level is up to the 7.5 ml line. Don't worry about making the measurements exact. Tip: Adding too much powder will speed-up the cure time, but it will also generate a lot of bubbles, which makes the repair look bad. |
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Mix the powder and liquid together until uniform. As time goes on, the mixture will slowly get thicker. Wait until the PlastiFix reaches the consistency you desire. Do not stir excessively as this will introduce air bubbles into the mixture. A thicker mixture is better for applying to vertical surfaces; a thinner mixture is better for pouring onto horizontal surfaces. |
When the PlastiFix just starts to thicken, hold the clear plastic sheet inside the hole with your finger and dab a few drops of PlastiFix around the outside edge to hold it in place. You may find it easier to first mix a small amount of PlastiFix for this step and a larger amount to fill the hole for Step 9.

When the PlastiFix is just thick enough to stay in place on a vertical surface, spread it into the hole and fill it completely. If the PlastiFix is not thick enough, wait a few more seconds. It will slowly get thicker as time goes on.

Cover the hole with a plastic sheet cut from a Ziploc® bag to keep the PlastiFix from sagging while it sets up. Once you've covered it with the plastic film, use your fingers to smooth out the surface and remove any air bubbles.

Wait for about an hour for the PlastiFix to set up. Peel off the plastic sheet. Unless you want your lens to look brand new, you're done. You've got a permanent repair. If you want your repair to look brand new, follow steps 12 & 13.
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Using a sanding block, sand the PlastiFix smooth with 180 grit sandpaper. Fill any low spots or air bubbles with more PlastiFix if necessary. Finish sanding with 220, 320, 400, 600, 1,000, 1,500, and 2,000 grit sandpaper.
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By hand or with a buffing machine (preferred), polish the lens with polishing or rubbing compound. Polish until the lens is shiny.


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